As we crested the final hilltop to reach the summit of Logan’s Pass, I honestly gasped. Not because at 7:30 on a Saturday morning cars were already circling the tiny parking lot desperately searching for a parking spot or because there was a throng of people standing at the edge of said parking lot with cell phones and cameras out taking photos while sipping their hot drinks and chattering. It was what they were looking at.
Sunrise at Logan’s Pass, Glacier NP
Sunrise was breaking around a mountain top, casting a dreamlike yellow glow above the clouds hovering below the pass, sitting silently on the valley beneath. It was one of those surreal moments you can’t plan for or try to find, it simply happens. Dave dropped me off near the crowd, or more accurately, he was unable to move our jeep in any direction being stuck in the parking lot mire himself so I jumped out, moved to stand amongst the horde, cell phone in hand attempting to capture the moment (yes, I know. This was poorly done on my part for plague reasons but I plead a rare lack of impulse control due to stunning imagery).
A few minutes later I spotted my husband, who was now in a better position to leave the mess of traffic and off we went. Our goal of taking the Highline Trail (the reason we were at Logan’s Pass) would have to wait until our next visit.
While our planned adventure had been foiled, driving through the morning fog as we made our descent deeper into Glacier was a breathtaking reminder this place had so much to offer.
We soon discovered the lack of parking spaces was not limited to the popular trails. Eventually we found a place to pull over and eagerly began a new trek. This one would take us past St. Mary’s Falls to Virginia Falls along a trail which could never be described as a disappointment. The beginning of this unexpected choice led us through a burned out area. A misty mountain acted as a background to tall, silvered and black trees creating an eerie effect. It was as though we were trespassing in the beginnings of a haunted forest.
The ghostly woods soon faded under a bright sun that burned away the gloom as we moved forward into a lush forest. The trail became fully lined one side with dense foliage while a river flowed calmly on the other, sometimes more visible than at others. Two waterfalls were listed on the trail markers but this is misleading. Yes, two large waterfalls are found on this footpath but there are other, charming, smaller falls disrupting the river’s lazy journey.
Random small waterfall
On the way to the falls
Virginia Falls
Dave enjoying the view
A momentary digression if you don’t mind. Dave and I are both fortunate enough to work from home, something we enjoy tremendously as we love each other’s company (truthfully!). However, when you are around someone 24/7, outings tend to include quietly holding hands as well as weird conversations that devolve into downright goofy behavior with even odder topics and a lot of sexual innuendos. This sums up how all of our hikes went. I promise we did try to tone it down around passing other people.
I don’t know if waiting until after Labor Day helped with the number of wandering tourists or not. Saturday was busy but other than Logan’s Pass while we encountered a number of fellow explorers, there was no stream of people we couldn’t easily avoid.
Lake McDonald
Our evening treks during the week had proved to be even lonelier. Our first foray into Glacier’s vast wilderness was, to be honest, a trail not far off the road. This area seemed something of a contradiction since we were completely surrounded by towering trees, both upright and fallen, yet the traffic noise was muffled. This was oddly, not a rude or loud intrusion on our walk. I would not have thought us so close to the main road if I didn’t know better.
The evening was pleasant as we trod along what turned out to be primarily a horse path that eventually gave way to a regular human trail. We were guided across the road to a small waterfall and bridge area, then routed back to the horse path for the return trip via a stone underpass.
The following night we made our way to the Hidden Lake Overlook (an easy 2.7 mile hike I was told). If you go by my husband and a couple of passerbyers who attempted words of encouragement to me, I was a bit whiny about the constant uphill during the first part of the hike. I personally find this hard to believe. Yes, most of the way there is a fairly steep incline on a wooden walkway. No, I’m not great at walking quick ascents, but I wouldn’t refer to myself as whiny. Possibly a little petulant, maybe even a touch complaining, but not whining.
Part way up the wooden walkway to Hidden Lake Overlook
Panorama from mostly up the hill
Naturally, there were small children full of energy going up and down the pathway with ease (aren’t there always?). It’s enough to really make a person (me) feel out of shape as I tried unsuccessfully to not breathe like a fish out of water gasping for air on the way up.
That aside, the hike itself was lovely and the overlook for Hidden Lake is beautiful, I highly recommend it.
Hidden Lake Overlook
Proof that I made it to the Hidden Lake Overlook
So the question remains, was waiting until after Labor Day to explore Glacier NP worth it? I believe so. Of course even without waiting, Glacier is a place well worth visiting.
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